Copenhagen Fashion Week, one of the world’s most renowned fashion events, is now at the center of a heated controversy over its sustainability claims. Consumer protection groups and advisory firm Continual have accused the event—and seven participating Danish clothing brands—of engaging in greenwashing. They argue that the festival’s 19 eco-friendly requirements and sustainability claims are misleading and do not deliver genuine environmental benefits.
Greenwashing allegations shake the sustainable fashion industry
Recent complaints filed with the Consumer Ombudsman (Forbrugerombudsmanden) allege that both Copenhagen Fashion Week and the involved brands have presented sustainability claims that are either imprecise or irrelevant. These claims mislead consumers into believing that the brands are significantly less environmentally damaging than they really are. This issue is critical for the fashion industry as it struggles with real environmental impact and genuine sustainable practices.
Research and investigative reports from local outlets such as TV2 Kosmopol and DR, along with in-depth analyses by Foljeton, have fueled this debate. The controversy highlights the need for transparency and accountability in the sustainable fashion sector.
Scrutinizing Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability and eco-friendly requirements
Copenhagen Fashion Week has established 19 sustainability requirements that participating brands must meet to be featured on its official calendar. These criteria include prohibiting disposable plastics during shows, ensuring proper waste segregation, and mandating that at least 60% of collections consist of surplus, certified, or “preferred” materials.
Critics argue that these requirements are more of a marketing framework than concrete measures to achieve genuine sustainability. The oversight of these measures is described as insufficient, raising concerns about their real-world impact. As one industry insider stated:
“The fashion industry does not rhyme very well with sustainability. Therefore, one should not brand one’s clothes as sustainable if it cannot be proven.”
This statement underlines the skepticism regarding the effectiveness of current sustainability standards in the fashion industry.
Industry experts speak out on sustainable fashion and greenwashing
Both Consumer Council Think (Forbrugerrådet Tænk) and Continual have voiced strong criticism. Anti-greenwashing specialist Tanja Gotthardsen, founder of Continual, emphasized:
“The sum of the requirements does not result in sustainability. If one wants to market oneself based on sustainability, it is crucial that it makes a significant difference and can be documented.”
Critics stress that attractive green claims must be backed by measurable and verifiable actions. Without proper documentation, these claims contribute to misleading marketing practices that undermine true environmental progress.
Legal implications and European impact of greenwashing in fashion
The complaint names seven Danish clothing companies—Baum und Pferdgarten, Berner Kühl, Forza Collective, Herskind, OpéraSport, Stine Goya, and Won Hundred—and suggests that misleading sustainability claims could lead to criminal charges. If pursued legally, these companies could face fines of up to 4% of their turnover.
Furthermore, the controversy has international ramifications. Similar sustainability frameworks have been adopted by events such as Oslo Runway, Berlin Fashion Week, the Fashion Council Germany, and the British Fashion Council. This suggests that greenwashing is a global challenge in the fashion industry, demanding stricter regulation and transparency.
Responses from Copenhagen Fashion Week and involved brands
In response to the allegations, Copenhagen Fashion Week clarified that its 19 sustainability requirements are intended as a framework for brands applying to participate in the event. These criteria are just one of several admission requirements and do not serve as an official certification of sustainability. The organizers have expressed a willingness to engage in constructive dialogue with the Consumer Ombudsman to address any shortcomings.
Among the accused brands, some have responded to the controversy while others have not. Representatives from Baum und Pferdgarten and Berner Kühl have acknowledged the concerns and revised their marketing language to remove unsubstantiated green claims. However, several brands, including Won Hundred and Forza Collective, have yet to publicly comment on the issue.
The future of sustainable fashion and greenwashing regulations
The greenwashing accusations against Copenhagen Fashion Week and its associated brands have ignited a broader conversation about sustainability in fashion. With increasing consumer awareness and more stringent regulatory scrutiny, the fashion industry is under pressure to support its environmental claims with verifiable, impactful actions.
This controversy underscores the urgent need for transparency, accountability, and genuine sustainable practices in the fashion industry. As sustainability remains a key focus, industry players must ensure their commitments translate into measurable and real environmental benefits, rather than simply serving as marketing rhetoric.
